Swainby to Scarth Nick, Huthwaite & Whorl Hill

An outlier of the Cleveland Hills the 773ft Whorl Hill near Swainby was named for its prominent roundness by early Viking settlers. It makes a fitting target towards the end of our 6 and a half mile walk which also includes a low level wooded stretch of the Cleveland Way.

We start from the car park in Emerson Close in Swainby (GR 476022) close to the Blacksmith's Arms. Turn right up the village street parallel to Potto Beck. After passing the Victorian parish church on the left and just beyond the village shop turn right into Claver Close.

Distance: 6.5 miles

Time: 3 to 4 hours

Grade: easy

Conditions: well marked field paths and bridleways, few stiles

Refreshments: Swainby's two pubs and coffee shop

Originally published: 25 December 2015

In 50 yards and just beyond the school a path is signed between houses and leads across fields to Back Lane where go left. For the next mile we follow the drove road used in the 18th and early 19th centuries by thousands of cattle coming annually from Scotland and Northumberland on their way to markets in Malton, York and further south. At this point, having already crossed Yarm Bridge nine miles to the north, they would be starting the steep climb to Scarth Nick, the narrow defile which gave them access to the moors. Beyond the Nick their route followed the Hambleton Drove Road, a track of prehistoric origins.

Our lane is almost traffic free and soon passes a well preserved 19th century limekiln. At a road junction go right, climbing more steeply around two sharp bends through Scarth Nick, described in 1771 by Arthur Young, the noted chronicler of the 18th century agrarian revolution, as one of the places where "you go through such steep narrow precipices that I would sincerely advise any friends to go 100 miles to escape it".

The tarmac surface makes it a good deal easier for today's travellers. At the top leave the road by turning left into Clain Wood along the long distance Cleveland Way. In some 400 yards some seats have been sited in a clearing in the trees from which there are views to the north across the Cleveland Plain. The path then drops down a steep slope used 200 years ago as access to limestone quarries.

At the foot the Cleveland Way joins Limekiln Road along which cartloads of lime were brought from the kilns built below the quarries in Clain Wood on the Marquess of Aylesbury's land. There was a ready market for the lime as the estate insisted that, after three successive crops, newly ploughed land had to be spread with 20 sacks of lime to the acre.

Turn left for a few paces. If you wish to halve the walk then continue ahead through a gate back into Swainby. The main walk however follows the Cleveland Way right, through the wood for another half mile. It then turns left down across a field to an idyllic spot with crossings of Scugdale Beck and a tributary stream. A short climb on a tarred lane follows past Hollin Hill Farm to the hamlet of Huthwaite Green where the road up Scugdale is crossed.

We now follow for some 500 yards the line of the railway which, in the late 19th century, carried ironstone from Aylesbury Mine on the right, now covered by Live Moor Plantation. Remains of the mine's spoil heaps are passed on the left. Shortly afterwards we leave the Cleveland Way which turn sharp right up a long flight of steps on to the heights of Live Moor. Instead we go straight ahead through a gate (not signed) on a rough bridleway  keeping the plantation on the right. After one field the wood is entered and the right of way climbs some 50 yards to meet a well made track.

Bear left and follow the track down through the wood. Roseberry Topping, some 8 miles away acts as a marker. Another field is then crossed to reach Bank Lane and a welcome seat. Turn left along the lane towards Whorl Hill and Faceby.

It's almost impossible now to discern the proud E II R pattern of trees planted in 1977  to mark the Queen's Silver Jubilee. However the hill's steep slopes are still covered in mainly larch and scots pines and a network of paths allow the walker to appreciate this tranquil spot.

Turn left into the trees just beyond Sycamores, the first cottage on the left on Bank Lane. The right of way climbs steeply between three lines of beeches. It then flattens out and continues as a broad path around the left side of the hill with good views along the edge of the western Cleveland Hills. It emerges from the trees at Whorl Hill Farm where go left.

More extensive views open up north to Stockton and west across the plain to the distant Pennines. The path follows a deep hollow way, evidence of its antiquity. It then descends to Whorlton, a thriving settlement in the Middle Ages, protected by the castle of the Meynells and the Darcys.

By the early 15th century however, the village was almost deserted and Swainby came to replace it as the main centre of population. Pevsner in his North Riding calls it 'an eerie place, with a church in ruins, a castle in ruins and hardly anything else'. What is left though is worth visiting.

Our path joins a  tarred lane. Continue ahead along it towards Swainby. The former church, also dedicated to the Holy Cross, is on the left. It is in ruins except for the chancel with its Norman arch. Inside through a protective window  you can glimpse of one of  England's rare medieval wooden effigies, probably of Nicholas, second Lord Meynell who died in 1322, lying under a 15th century canopied tomb.

Leave the church under a towering line of ancient yews and then walk past the ditches and banks of the former village to the motte and bailey castle built by Robert de Meynell in the early 12th century. Later stone defences were added but of these only the gatehouse remains with its shields of Meynell, Darcy, Greystoke and Meynell impaling Darcy.

Continue down the lane into Swainby with a short cut  possible to the right just before the bend.