Richmond to Willance's Leap & Hudswell Woods

Richmond deserves the description by Pevsner in his North Riding as 'one of the visually most enjoyable small towns of the North of England', citing the terraced Swaledale scenery and the boldness of the castle keep and the tower of Greyfriars as major features.

From the town radiates a complex network of rights of way which offer incomparable views that confirm Pevsner's opinions. This 9 mile walk (with a shorter 5 mile route) climbs from the riverside to Low Moor before continuing to the famous Willance's Leap. The return follows the heights on the south bank of the Swale.

Distance: 9 or 5 miles

Time: 5 or 3 hours

Grade: moderate

Conditions: sharp climbs from the Station and in Hudswell Woods. Well signed paths

Refreshments: Richmond

OS Explorer Map: 304

Originally published: 18 November 2011

We start from the Station, built in 1847 and now restored to its former glory, without the trains. Walk towards the town over Mercury Bridge, renamed to commemorate the Royal Corps of Signals' first 50 years spent in nearby Catterick.

Turn first right into Lombards Wynd which in a few yards bears left and climbs to meet Frenchgate, named for the followers of the 12th century first Norman earls of Richmond who built the castle. You also join Pottergate by the memorial to the Green Howards.

Cross at the traffic lights and go left for about 200 yards to where the main road bears left. A few yards along the right fork, and opposite the castellated former Victoria Hospital turn sharp right up a steep tarmac ginnel which in 400 yards reaches Green Howards Road where there are outstanding views back over the town.

Turn left for about 100 yards and then take a path on the right through a slim-fit stile and across three fields to enter Low Moor. This was the site of Richmond's racecourse from the 17th century until 1891 when the sharp bends proved too dangerous for the new breeds of faster horses. Today it is Richmond's most spacious recreation area with spectacular views eastwards across the Vale of Mowbray.

Turn left along it, heading towards the ruins of the grandstand built in 1775 by John Carr of York and described by Jane Hatcher in her Richmondshire Architecture as once the town's finest Georgian building. Its present state is deplorable. Close by to the left is the restored tiny Judge's Box of 1814.

Bear left to a gate by High Lodge and turn right on the old road to Marske. A few yards past High Gingerfield Lodge turn left on a bridleway which is well signed down to where it joins a tarred lane where go right. 

In a few yards the alternative 5 mile walk turns left down Green Lane (unsuitable for vehicles). It rejoins the longer route half a mile below in the valley where turn left.

The main walk continues past a seat and plaque quoting Wainwright's Coast to Coast book. Just beyond High Leases Farm and after the end of the tarmac go right over a stile and then bear left uphill on to the top of the limestone crags of Whitcliff Scar. Ignore an overgrown path which clings to the scar edge and instead head via a stile across a field to a double set of ladder stiles. Panoramic views soon open up of the middle reaches of Swaledale almost as far as Reeth.

Beyond a small plantation  you reach the monuments at Willance's Leap. After reading, in some detail, the story of Robert Willance who, in 1601, was thrown from his horse over the cliff, continue along the edge for another half mile to the tarred lane leading down into Deep Dale.

Our walk follows the lane down into the valley. In half a mile leave it by a stile on the right. In a few yards bear right downhill at a well signed crossing of paths. The right of way is indicated by a series of yellow topped poles well clear of Low Applegarth Farm away to the left. The path soon becomes an easy going riverside walk downstream with the bubbling Swale as an energetic companion.

After half a mile you can strike off into trees on the left or continue by the river on a permissive path. Both then join together and soon pass an elaborate monument to Jane from her 12 dogs for 'our adventures in Whitecliff Wood'. The right of way then skirts Lownethwaite Farm, links up with the shorter walk on the access lane and reaches the A 6108. Cross straight over on to a path leading to the Round Howe car park.

We cross the Swale by a footbridge into Hudswell Woods owned by the National Trust which has developed a network of trails to complement the public rights of way. An easy return route to Richmond is left along the river bank, most of it in the woods with the last half mile paved with huge stones cut and laid when the hillside was quarried in the 19th century. Some of the slabs have been dislodged by successive floods, making the going uneven in places.

For this walk however I chose field paths high above the trees which offer outstanding views across to Richmond. From the bridge go ahead on a path which soon bears right and climbs via a gate and then past a welcome seat dedicated to Andrew Watson, Man of the Woods. In another 200 yards take a left fork to a gate and emerge into fields.

In a few yards go left either over a stile and along the edge of the wood or across the neighbouring field. In about 250 yards the paths join and continue via a long succession of stiles over open country with Hudswell Woods well away to the left. The path then crosses one larger field and rejoins the side of the wood before re-entering it as the Richmondshire Woodland Walk. Ahead is a famous viewpoint of the Swale, the castle and the town, a favourite of countless artists.

The path descends to Richmond Bridge, rebuilt by Carr in 1789. Cross the road and continue on the same side of the river, on a path which allows appreciation of the strength of the site chosen by Alan the Red for his castle in 1071. Mercury Bridge is reached in half a mile.